The ideal environment includes fully grown trees and shrubs. If this is not feasible, provide stacks of cornstalks or other brush for hiding and nesting spots. [3] X Research source
If a males dies or has to be removed, do not attempt to replace it during the breeding season. The remaining males may kill the intruder.
Incubators: These machines are almost always used in commercial operations, as they can incubate many more eggs at once. [6] X Research source They also allow precise control over the environment, which can greatly increase hatching percentage — at least once you’ve had some practice. Pheasant hens: This is the cheaper option, and may be more fun for a backyard breeder who wants to watch pheasant behavior. However, as described below, this requires plenty of space and vegetation. Brooding halts egg production, so you will end up with fewer fertilized eggs than the incubation method. Hens of other species: Even in good conditions, some pheasant species or individual hens will fail to raise the eggs. You may use domestic fowl to brood their eggs, but there is a risk of disease transfer or poor mothering once hatched. Note — One efficient way to handle this is to allow the pheasant hen to brood for 7–10 days. Take the eggs to the incubator, then allow the hen to lay a second clutch and raise it herself. [7] X Research source
Forced-draught incubators have better ventilation systems and are generally easier to manage. However, some studies suggest that the more labor-intensive still air incubators get better results for pheasant eggs. Read the manual before buying if possible. If installed incorrectly or in the wrong environment, the incubator may overheat.
Start this at least a week in advance. Leaving incubator on this long will allow it to reach a steady temp and humidity before eggs are introduced. [8] X Research source
Rotate each egg once a day. Mark two opposite sides of the egg with an X and an O to help you keep track, using a pencil or felt-tipped pen. Move on to incubation as soon as you can, and always within 11 days of collection.
Do not expose eggs to the light for too long, as the heat can cause damage. [11] X Research source You may perform this test periodically while the eggs are being incubated, but try to minimize handling.
Do not expose eggs to the light for too long, as the heat can cause damage. [11] X Research source You may perform this test periodically while the eggs are being incubated, but try to minimize handling.
The right temperature is vital to the eggs’ development. Keep a master thermometer (accurate within 0. 18ºF / 0. 1ºC) in a cool place where it will not be jarred. At least once a year, compare your daily thermometer to the master and replace the daily thermometer if it is not accurate within 0. 9ºF / 0. 5ºC. [13] X Research source Incubators can easily overheat on a hot day, or if there is not enough ventilation in the room. In an emergency where the correct temperature is not feasible, a few hours at a low temperature (90ºF / 32. 2ºC) is safer than a high temperature (105ºF / 40. 6ºC). [14] X Research source )
Turn an odd number of times each day so the two sides alternate positions each night. [16] X Research source
The wrong humidity can cause serious developmental problems. The effects are less immediate than a mistake in temperature or egg turning, but the humidity should never be more than 10% off these recommended levels for more than a day or two[18] X Research source To increase humidity, keep the incubator’s moisture trays full of warm water. Many incubators have automatic controls to adjust humidity as well. At the correct humidity levels, the egg should lose weight at a steady pace, down to about 85% of its original weight by the time it hatches. For more accuracy, weigh the egg regularly and draw a chart of its progress. If it is on pace to lose too much or too little weight, consult an expert or an in-depth incubation guide for information on adjusting humidity. [19] X Research source
Ventilation can be adjusted to change humidity, but this is not its only purpose. Do not reduce ventilation too far in an attempt to increase humidity, or the chicks may be cut off from oxygen.
Move the eggs to a hatcher (optional). A hatcher is essentially a simple incubator with no turning mechanisms. Turning is not required during the final stages, and newly hatched chicks can get caught in the moving parts. Hatched chicks also introduce disease, so their presence in the incubator requires a new round of disinfecting. [22] X Research source Increase relative humidity to 65%. [23] X Research source This will help soften the egg membrane, allowing chicks to push through. If necessary, hang wet hessian or install automatic misters to increase humidity. Increase ventilation. Open the air vents wider during this period. Never keep the vents narrow in an effort to increase humidity during this time. [24] X Research source
If the pheasants refuse to brood, you can give the eggs to other poultry species. Because the possible transfer of disease is specific to species and region, speak to a local pheasant breeder or veterinarian before you try this.
Occasionally, a male will help the female brood. If you’re a backyard breeder who’s not too invested in the outcome, you can try keeping in the rooster for the first season and seeing what happens.
Also provide ramps between any “steps” in the pen.
Also make sure you are using a mesh fine enough to prevent chicks from walking through the holes.
