Proof of property ownership Permit application worksheets, provided by the city Construction drawings
Pressure-treated lumber may be more appropriate for drier climates, but will prove to be more durable and customizable in the long run regardless of the climate. A wooden structure built properly will be much sturdier than other structures. If you want a long-term place to park a car, go with lumber. “Galvanized metal” carports are much cheaper and quicker to install, though ultimately less sturdy in the long run. If you need a quick, cheap place to house a daily-driver, it’s a good option. Often, pre-fabricated carports made of galvanized metal are the best bet for a DIYer in need of a quick project.
If you’ve got a bigger car or truck, or you want to make a carport for multiple vehicles, make the necessary adjustments to accommodate for the size structure you hope to create.
If you want to build a carport on an existing concrete pad, or the end of your driveway, that’s perfectly appropriate. Measure the dimensions of your concrete pad and shape the structure to the ground, rather than the other way around. You can either build the structure with the poles to either side of the pad, anchoring them in the ground.
The best idea would be to pour concrete, or build on top of pre-existing concrete slab. This will give your carport the most life and durability.
Metal building materials are usually available for cheaper than the price of a lumber carport kit, complete with installation instructions. You can put it up in a day or so.
To set the posts, pour concrete six inches deep in the two-foot deep hole, then plant the post into the hole so it rests on the bottom. After the concrete has hardened, this will become your post footer, now you can back fill the hole with soil and tamp in the layers. Pour more concrete until the hole is filled. Use a level and make adjustments as the concrete is hardening to ensure that the post is perfectly vertical. Allow the concrete to harden for at least one full day before nailing on the beams.
Secure two supporting crossbeams flat on the top of the shorter corner posts and extend to the higher corner posts about two feet down from their tops. Next, nail them to the higher posts using T-shape hangers that can be purchased at any hardware store. Before nailing the beams down through the T-shape hangers, make sure they are level.
It’s important to make your structure as secure as possible, especially if you live in snowy, windy, or other severe climates. For load-bearing specifications, you need to research the requirements in your area. There’s no single, universal way of doing it, so defer to your local guidelines always.
To notch the rafters, the idea is to rest them on edge of the beams. To do this, put the front rafter in position, and note where it comes into contact with the side beams with a pencil mark. At that point, notch the rafter with the circular saw so that in the finished position the rafter sinks about 1/3 of the four inches onto the beam. Once you are satisfied with how this first rafter rests on the side beams, take it down and use it as a template to notch the other five rafters. When fastening the rafters, angle nails through the side of the rafter into the beam below. Note that notching will not work if you need it to remain flush with the beam. To hang the rafters, buy some metal joist hangers at the hardware store. There are many different shapes and styles of metal hangers that fasten 2” x 4”s to other structural elements in a variety of orientations. The relevant angle in this structure, the angle of the rafters to the beams, is about 25 degrees. These metal hangers can bend to accommodate small variations, so don’t worry about finding the perfect one. Unlike with the notch method, with the hanger method the rafters rest on top of the beams. Your nails will go through the hanger into the rafter, then into the beam.
Buy plywood sheets as large as you can get them. Typically, they come in 4’ x 8’ sheets, but sizes vary. The entire roof surface is 10’ x 17’. Cut elements with the circular saw to produce the fewest number of seams. The fewer the seams, the less potential for water leakage. The core box of your carport is nine feet wide and the rafters are ten feet long. This means that when the roof elements are in place, you will need enough plywood for about a six-inch overhang on either side of the cart port. If you want it to be longer, accommodate by buying more plywood. Plywood comes in a variety of thicknesses. For this project you can use ½ inch thick plywood. [4] X Research source
Would it be smarter to insulate the structure? Maybe, but probably not cost-effective. Remember, you’re not building an addition to your house, you’re building a simple structure to keep junk off your car.
Alternatively, if you don’t want to shingle the roof, you could skip the plywood roof step altogether and install a metal roof over the shingles. A slanted aluminum roof is common in outbuildings and you’ll be that much closer to being finished. It might be a good idea, if you can stand the look of it and the loud sound of rain on metal.
It’s a good idea to restain regularly to keep the life of the structure up. Revisit your work periodically to catch up with repairs before they become a major problem.
It’s a good idea to restain regularly to keep the life of the structure up. Revisit your work periodically to catch up with repairs before they become a major problem.
