Plant damage that has occurred overnight, particularly to shoots, flower buds, and foliage. Tree bark that’s been eaten or damaged by deer rubbing their antlers against it.
Space the perimeter about 3 to 5 feet (0. 91 to 1. 52 m) outward from the vulnerable area.
Avoid 0. 75 by 1 inch (1. 9 cm × 2. 5 cm) mesh fencing, which is designed for smaller animals.
If your total linear footage (without the 10 percent extra) is 100 feet (30 m), divide this number by 15 to get the number of posts. In this case, you need 7 (6. 66 rounded up). Head to a home hardware store to purchase deer fence posts. Slant your fence outward at a 45-degree angle for fences less than 8 feet (2. 4 m) tall.
Although monofilament wire is not necessary, it’s a nice addition to keep your fence taut and secure.
Don’t skip bottom ground stakes—they prevent deer from getting under the fence.
If you’re short on posts, divide your total linear footage by 15 again and double-check that you purchased enough.
Make sure each post is driven at least 1 foot (0. 30 m) into the ground.
Be sure that your posts are at least 1 foot (0. 30 m) into the ground.
Be sure to leave about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) of fencing to account for hills and dips that can decrease when you stretch. If you have any extra fencing, staple it flush to the ground.
Skip this step if you didn’t purchase monofilament wiring.
If your fencing has “memory” and retains a curved shape, stretch it out 3 to 4 feet (0. 91 to 1. 22 m) and bend it into the opposite direction that it was rolled in.
Always drive the kinked end of the stake into the ground—this prevents it from coming loose.
