Both dust masks and safety glasses are available at most hardware stores. To reduce the mess left behind, work outdoors. If that isn’t possible, open up nearby doors and windows to ventilate some of the dust and fumes from the glue. Consider vacuuming up any remaining dust after you have finished building the tank.
The bucket and other materials needed are available online or at most hardware stores. Purchase a new bucket or save old buckets used for other projects, such as mixing concrete. Save the wood circle you cut out. It’s meant to be the target for the dunk tank. If you don’t have a jigsaw, you could simply use a square piece of plywood for the target. You could also use another type of material. The size of the target can also vary, so adjust it as you would like!
Check online or at hardware stores for flusher valve kits. It is the same product used in a toilet’s tank to control the water flow. The PVC cap and adhesive are also available there. If the dunk tank spills water on its own, it’s because of the overflow valve. Make sure it is plugged to prevent this from happening.
Hole saws are designed to cut perfect circles into surfaces like the bucket you’re using. Check hardware stores to see if you can purchase or even rent one. If you don’t have one, try using an alternative, like another type of saw or a utility knife. Leaking is a common problem, so consider spreading a silicone sealant around the edges of the flapper. Flappers usually come with a rubber gasket meant to protect against leaks. Twist it onto the bottom part of the flapper emerging from the bucket if you wish.
Create the hole using a power drill. They are available, along with the proper drill bit, online or at hardware stores. The exact size of the hole will vary depending on what kind of float valve you use. For accuracy, purchase the float valve first, then make the hole big enough to match it.
Most hardware stores carry float valve rods and hose adapters if you need them. The valve is meant to connect hold the valve in place while connecting it to the adapter, which you can use to fill the bucket with water. The valve will cause the bucket to tip over when someone hits the target. The hose adapter is a way to quickly refill the bucket by using the valve. Many valve kits come with silicone sealant. Try spreading some of the silicone sealant around the installed valve to prevent it from leaking.
The float ball is often included with the float valve if you buy a kit. These parts can be purchased separately online or at many hardware stores. The float ball is a round piece of plastic that helps the valve open up properly so it dumps water onto any unsuspecting person below it. The float ball and valve are the same components used in toilets. If you need an example of how the ball fits on the valve, look inside the tank on the back of a toilet in your home.
A pair of pipes 2 in × 1 3⁄8 in (5. 1 cm × 3. 5 cm). A 1 1⁄2 in × 8 3⁄8 in (3. 8 cm × 21. 3 cm) pipe. A 1 1⁄2 in × 10 in (3. 8 cm × 25. 4 cm) pipe. A 2 in × 19 1⁄2 in (5. 1 cm × 49. 5 cm) pipe. A 2 in (5. 1 cm) PVC tee. A 1⁄2 in (1. 3 cm) coupling. A 1 1⁄2 in (3. 8 cm) 45-degree elbow joint. A 1 1⁄2 in (3. 8 cm) 90-degree elbow joint.
Take your time to ensure the pipes are positioned correctly. Consider setting up all the pipes first, then cementing them together once you’re sure they are in the right place.
The 45-degree elbow joint is a connecting piece designed to join straight pipes together at an angle. The extra length at the end is needed to connect this component to the rest of the mechanism.
Order a miter box online or at a hardware store if you plan on using one. The box holds the PVC pipes in place while you cut it with a saw. You could gently sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth them out. Be careful around any cut pipes that feel sharp.
PVC cement is a special kind of glue used to ensure PVC pipes stick together and stay waterproof. It’s usually sold in buckets at hardware stores. Make sure the pipe is clean before applying the cement. Dirt and moisture could prevent it from working properly.
Pick up at least 1 PVC coupling when you purchase the PVC pipes you need. It’s important for hooking straight pipes to one another. Make sure you are able to rotate the pipe freely inside the tee without having it slide out. It’s necessary for the dumping mechanism to work properly.
The 90-degree elbow is a connecting piece like the 45-degree one, but it joins pipes at less of a steep angle. That makes it useful for arranging pipes in a square or another consistent formation. Arrange the pipes so the opening of the 45-degree elbow faces downward. If you plan on adjusting it later, wait to add the cement until you’re sure you have all the pipes positioned correctly.
4 2 in × 60 in (5. 1 cm × 152. 4 cm) pipes. 7 {2 in × 30 in (5. 1 cm × 76. 2 cm) pipes. 4 2 in × 13 1⁄2 in (5. 1 cm × 34. 3 cm) pipes. 2 2 in × 10 in (5. 1 cm × 25. 4 cm) pipes. 2 2 in × 6 in (5. 1 cm × 15. 2 cm) pipes. 2 2 in × 1 1⁄2 in (5. 1 cm × 3. 8 cm) pipes.
A 3-way elbow joint is very similar to a tee, but the openings are set at different angles. Tees are good for joining parallel pipes, but 3-ways are better for joining ones placed perpendicularly. Keep the PVC pipes positioned at 90-degree angles so the base forms a perfect square. Position the connecting joints so the free ends are face up.
Make sure these pipes fit well into the elbow joints. They need to stand up straight to stabilize the tank’s top platform.
Turn the elbow joints so the free end faces downward. Those openings will line up with the pipes on the rest of the tank.
You need the tee to set up some pipes in the center in order to hold the bucket and flushing mechanism. Don’t glue the frame pipes together without adding the tee first! Rotate the tee so the open end points upward. This is where you will attach the dunking mechanism later.
These pipes are shorter than the ones on the right side so you can fit elbow joints on the frame. It is necessary to create a platform for the dumping mechanism.
Position the tees so the open end points toward the center of the dunk tank. This part will be used to make a platform for the bucket.
Adjust the pipes as needed before the cement dries. It makes them difficult to disconnect, so don’t cement anything you plan on taking apart.
You don’t need to glue the frame to the long pipes. If you plan on taking apart the tank for storage, don’t glue them. However, check the frame to make sure it’s stable on top of the tank.
Make sure the bucket is stable on the frame and has plenty of room to dump water on the person sitting below it. The water will spill through the gap in the pipes on the frame.
Look for plumber’s tape online or at a nearby hardware store. The screws will likely be available there too. Plumber’s tape is very easy to use and it already has holes in it to help you position the screws. You could also use or 1 1⁄2 in (3. 8 cm) pipe clamps instead.
The screw eyes provide a spot to string the bucket to the dumping mechanism. They are basically screws with a circular opening on the end and are available at most hardware stores.
To ensure the string doesn’t break, you could also use a heavy fishing line or another type of material. Try getting a fishing line online, at a general store, or at a fishing supply shop.
If you don’t have a garden hose, you can get one at most general stores or hardware stores. Give the dunk tank a test by throwing some 1 lb (450 g) bean bags at the target. If it’s set up correctly, the arm will pull up the flapper, causing water to spill onto anyone sitting inside the tank.
