Gable roof: this looks like an inverted V, and is the easiest and most popular roof style in North America. There are also several variations on the gable roof that are designed for buildings that aren’t simple rectangles, including the saltbox roof, which is suited to join walls that are different heights. [3] X Expert Source David BitanRoofing Contractor & Maintenance Professional Expert Interview. 14 July 2020. Flat roof: these roofs are mostly flat, but usually have a bit of a slope. As such, they allow for outdoor living gardens or a living space on top. Hip and pyramid roofs: as the name suggests, a pyramid roof is a roof in the shape of a pyramid and is designed for a square building. A hip roof uses the same basic shape, but is elongated and is designed for a rectangular building. The hip roof is also very popular in North America. Gambrel roof: this is also known as the barn roof, as this style is often used on barns. This roof style maximizes the amount of usable space in the attic or top floor. Shed roof: this is a flat roof style with a greater slope, and is most common on sheds, porches, and home additions.

Gable roofs are not suitable for areas with high winds, while the hip roof is much sturdier in high winds. Flat roofs are practical in hot, dry climates, but not areas that receive high amounts of precipitation. [4] X Expert Source David BitanRoofing Contractor & Maintenance Professional Expert Interview. 14 July 2020. There are many types of pitched roofs, and these are more suitable for climates that receive more precipitation. The amount of snow and rain you receive will help you determine the actual pitch of the roof. In temperate climates that see all four seasons and snow, the simplest pitch roofs are the best, as there are fewer places where leaves and needles can get stuck, and they allow snow and rain to run off easily.

For pitched roofs, the truss (the framework) can be made of wood or metal, and the outside can have wood or asphalt shingles, clay or concrete tiles, or metal sheeting. [5] X Research source The type of truss you build will be suited for different weights, which may help you determine the exterior materials you use. For flat roofs, you can use asphalt, metal, fiberglass, or poly-vinyl as the exterior, but shingles won’t work. Algae-resistant asphalt shingles are suitable for humid climates, while clay tiles are popular in arid climates. Areas that receive heavy snowfall must have strong roofs built with durable materials, and metal or asphalt shingles are the most common exterior materials. [6] X Research source

Prefabricated trusses Sheathing (also known as decking) material, such as plywood or fiberglass Underlayment, such as tar paper (and possibly an ice barrier in colder climates) Roof covering, such as tiles, shingles, or metal Roofing nails

Framing: this is the construction and installation of the roof frame, which can be done with premade trusses. Sheathing: this is the layer of material that goes on top of the frame and provides the surface of the roof. Underlayment installation: this is a protective layer that covers the sheathing. This step may also include the installation of an ice barrier on top of the underlayment. Roof cover installation: this layer goes on top of the underlayment and protects the roof from the elements.

Trusses are often spaced 12, 16, or 24 inches apart. [11] X Research source Your spacing will depend on building codes and how much weight (snow) the roof will have to hold. Without a crane, it will be easiest to hoist the trusses up onto the roof lying flat, and once there they can be raised into position.

Continue installing the common or standard trusses at regular intervals, depending on your plan. As you reach the end of the batten, install progressively longer batten ties (going by four or so truss lengths), until you can install a batten that spans the length of the roof from one end truss to the other. Some areas have building codes that dictate a roofing system must be attached to the structure below with steel connector plates or hurricane clips, so be sure you’re building your roof to code. Once all the trusses are installed, install permanent bracing as per the truss manufacturer’s instructions. [14] X Research source

To fasten the sheathing to the frame, use 8D common or deformed shank nails. Fasteners should be three-eighths of an inch from the edges. Fasteners should be spaced six inches apart around the edges of each panel, and 12 inches apart within each panel. [15] X Research source

Beginning at the bottom where you started with the sheathing, roll the underlayment out flat, going lengthwise across the sheathing. Staple it into place. Once the first layer is down, roll out the next layer, working your way up toward the roof ridge. Overlap the layers by about six inches. Continue laying the underlayment up to the ridge, or within four inches of the ridge. Repeat the same process for the other side of the roof. Once you’ve laid the underlayment on both sides, roll out a final layer to go over the ridge like a hat. Make sure this layer overlaps the underlayment on either side of the ridge by at least eight inches. [17] X Research source