These plans may be required before securing a building permit in some communities. [4] X Research source Even if such a plan is not required, it will be helpful for you to have for your own planning and records-keeping. In some communities, you may need a plan designed by a professional engineer or carpenter in order to secure a permit. [5] X Research source Check with your local building code office to determine what (if any) documentation is required.
If you are building a temporary/portable ramp, you may be able to simply estimate the cost of wood and any other necessary supplies. If you are building a permanent fixture, this may require the skills of a carpenter or engineer, which could significantly increase the estimated costs of construction.
In cities where a building permit is required, you may face significant fines or other legal troubles for failing to secure a building permit before beginning construction of the ramp. Search online for your city and county regulations on building permits. You can also call your local Public Works office or a similar building code office in your city/county to learn about building permits and any local regulations that govern wheelchair ramps. [8] X Research source
One of the biggest factors in choosing a layout for the ramp is visual aesthetics. However, sometimes the size and shape of your yard may determine the shape and layout of your ramp. [9] X Research source
To calculate your estimated length of ramp, measure the total rise and multiply that measurement by the total slope chosen for your ramp. For example, a ramp with a 1:12 slope built for a 29 inch rise would be 348 inches, or 29 feet (29 x 12 = 348). Ramps may have a gentler angle than 1:12 - for example, extending the ramp 16 inches outward for every one inch of vertical rise (1:16) - to improve safety and ease of access. Ramps should not have a slope that is any less than 12 inches of run for every inch of vertical rise, though, as anything steeper than this may lead to accidents and/or injuries. Please note that if the ramp is for a commercial/business facility, your city, county, or state may dictate a separate slope requirement for indoor vs. outdoor ramps. In Minnesota, for example, interior or covered ramps for public/commercial use may have a slope of 1:12, but exterior ramps (which may be considered “walks,” depending on your municipal codes) must have gentler slopes of at least 1:20.
Top landings should measure at least 60 inches by 60 inches for an out-swinging door. The landing should provide at least 12 to 24 inches of “elbow room” on the handle side of the door, to ensure that the person opening the door can swing the wheelchair around and open the door without rolling backwards. This landing should come flush against the threshold of the exterior door, but it is recommended that there be no greater than a 1/2 inch gap between the ramp and the door threshold. This is to prevent the smaller front wheels from getting stuck, and to prevent walkers from tripping as they enter/exit the dwelling. Intermediate landings are typically optional, depending on the length and slope of the ramp. The size of this landing can range from 36 to 60 inches, depending on the slope. A steeper slope (such as a slope of 1:12) may require a longer distance in which the wheelchair may be stopped while descending. Bottom landings should measure at least the width of the ramp by approximately 48 inches of length if the ramp will be used by a walker, or 60 to 72 inches of length if the ramp will be used primarily by a wheelchair user. Make sure the bottom landing and ground are as close to flush as possible. A “lip” that measures more than 1/2 inch will pose a significant risk of tripping (for pedestrians) or rolling (for chair operators). Many experts recommend bolting the top landing to the building’s foundation. Otherwise there will be a risk of the ramp lifting up from temperature fluctuations, which may pose a threat to the individual(s) using the ramp and could at the very least cause an out-swinging door to become jammed.
Handrail size and placement will depend on the height and arm strength of the primary user(s), as well as any local building code requirements that may be applicable to your structure. The typical height range of most handrail locations is between 31 and 34 inches. The width of the handrails should be less than or equal to 1. 5 inches in diameter to ensure that the user can adequately grip the handrail. The diameter should be even smaller for children or adults with an impaired ability to grip or hold. Many lumber yards sell ready-made vertical hand rails. [10] X Research source Guardrails should be mounted level with the primary user’s seated knee height. This typically falls somewhere around 18 to 20 inches, though it’s best to measure the primary user’s seated knee height to ensure that the guardrails are effective and safe. Consider adding on a roof and/or gutters if the ramp is close to the building. Water runoff from the roof of the building may create a slipping hazard for wheelchair users, and a roof/covering will also help protect the wheelchair operator from the elements. An alternate option is to build a small extension off the roof to protect the ramp from runoff.
It’s generally best to choose medium-length lumber. For 2x4 and 2x6 boards, that means 16 feet or less in length. For 4x4 posts, choose beams that are 10 feet or less in length. [12] X Research source
Cross-brace each post in at least one position in each direction. This will help give lateral stability to the posts. [15] X Research source Attach stringers to the posts using 3. 5 inch screws. Use 1/4 inch by 4 inch high shear strength screws at each load joint and to fasten the sill to the home. [16] X Research source If the stringers are not at ground level or very close to it, use joist hangers on the stringers. To secure these, use hanger nails 1 and 5/8 inch. For all other fastenings, use screws instead of nails to ensure a stable structure. [17] X Research source
For wooden ramps, you can use a commercial “grit” tape, strips of roofing or shingling, or a coating of polyurethane sprinkled with sand. All of these materials are available at most hardware or building supply stores. For a concrete ramp, you can create an anti-slip surface by brushing the concrete with a broom while the concrete is still drying/hardening to create a rougher, less-smooth texture.
