You can also purchase a wind measuring tool, called an anemometer, and use it take the wind speed at the location of your planned turbine. Do this daily for a period of time. If the wind speed in your area is fairly consistent, a month of readings should be more than enough, though seasonal changes can drastically affect wind speed. Then, average your readings to see if a turbine at your location is reasonable. [3] X Research source
It’s also a good idea to discuss building a wind turbine with your neighbors before investing too much time in planning and construction. This way, you can address their concerns about wind turbines and resolve any misconceptions they may have about noise, radio interference, and TV reception. [4] X Research source
If you choose to build the blades, you can make them out of wood or cross-sections of PVC pipe. Instructions can be found online through a general Internet search for “DIY wind turbine blades. " Whether you build or buy the blades, you’ll likely want to have 3 blades on your wind turbine. Using an even number of blades, such as 2 or 4, makes a wind turbine more likely to vibrate as it spins. Adding more blades increases torque but can make the turbine rotate more slowly. Blades can also be made from household products, like modified shovels. If you plan on going this route, choose a sturdy shovel, and you may want to replace wooden handles with something more durable, like a metal haft. [6] X Research source [7] X Research source [8] X Research source
You could use an AC motor as a generator, although there may not be sufficient residual magnetism to produce a strong enough electric field. A generator relies on motion, in this case the movement of your blades, and magnetic force to generate electricity. A pre-made generator will be the easiest option for beginners, but tutorials can be found to make your own by searching the internet for “making a wind turbine generator. " If you decide to buy a DC generator, look for one rated for high voltage and current and low rotation speed (several hundred instead of several thousand revolutions per minute). You need to generate at least 12 volts over a consistent period of time. Your generator should be connected to a deep-cycle battery bank and charge controller in between the generator and inverter to protect the inverter and battery from power spikes. This will also provide power to the inverter during low-wind periods. Automotive alternators are not recommended as generators. These generally need to spin at much faster speeds than wind turbines can sustain to generate power. [9] X Research source [10] X Research source
By putting together your spindle first, you can construct your turbine piece by piece by adding parts one at a time to it. This will likely be the most efficient way to put together your turbine if you are attempting this project on your own. [11] X Research source
There should be a clearance of about 4” (10. 2 cm) between your spindle and the bearing. In high force winds, your turbine may flex, causing the blades to his, and damage, your spindle. If you don’t have a kit and are building your hub from scratch, you might consider using a 4 on 4 trailer hub. This can be bought at most stores that carry trailer supplies, like your local automotive parts store. [12] X Research source [13] X Research source
Slide a bolt through a hole in one of the flange tabs, fit your spoke onto the bolt, apply the spacer to the bolt, fit your second spoke into place on the bolt, and sandwich the spokes and spacer into place with your upper flange. Your lower and upper flange should be the same shape, with the same number of spoke attachment tabs. Screw the bolt into the upper flange with your hand to keep the flange in place, then fasten the other bolts for your first set of spokes. Repeat this process for all of your spokes. Once all your spokes are sandwiched between your lower and upper flanges, you should use a socket wrench to tighten your bolts. Once the bolts are tightened, your lower and upper flange and spokes should be sturdy and able to spin easily along with the hub on your bearing. Since your turbine assembly will be exposed to consistent force from the wind and other environmental factors, you’ll want your bolts to connect your spokes firmly. To guarantee a good connection, you should use a thread locking compound, which will be available at most hardware stores. [16] X Research source [17] X Research source
Only screw the studs into the flange far enough so that each stud is upright and sturdy. All studs should stick out of the flange an equal distance. If you use a hacksaw to cut a threaded metal rod, be careful not to damage the threading when you do so. Damaged threading could result in you not being able to fasten parts into place correctly. You’ll want these studs to be sturdily attached, much like the bolts you used for your spokes. To this end, you should use a thread locking compound on your studs. [18] X Research source
Whether you make your own or use a kit-made magnet rotor, always be careful when handling individual magnets or the magnet rotor plates. The magnetic forces of these are very strong and can cause serious injury if not handled with caution. Neodymium magnets are fairly brittle. You’ll need 24 of these, 12 for your top magnet rotor and 12 for the bottom one, but you might want to purchase extra in case one breaks during construction of your plate. These magnets are available for purchase online. [19] X Research source
Your template will occupy the middle of your rotor where the magnets will not be. Lines extending from the center to the edges of your template will indicate where magnets should be placed on the rotor. Tape can be used to hold your template in place and example templates can be found online. You should mark the polarity of your magnets before you begin placement. This can be done with a marker. If your magnets get jumbled together and you cannot tell the polarity, make a tester by gluing a weak magnet to a popsicle stick. Pass the “N” polarity side of your tester over the neodymium magnet. If you feel a push, the magnet is the same polarity. If you feel a pull, the polarity of the magnet you are testing is opposite. Use a pea-sized amount of epoxy when mounting your magnets. This should be applied to the bottom of each magnet before placing. Being careful to keep your fingers from between the magnet and rotor, slowly move the magnet to corner of the rotor plate. The magnet should grab onto the plate, and then you can slide it into the correct position using your template. [20] X Research source
Spacers that are unequal in length could create a slanted position for your upper magnet disk. This could be dangerous, and could also negatively impact the efficiency of your turbine. There should be a little over an inch (2. 5 cm) of stud clearance above your spacers. This will allow hex nuts to fasten your upper magnet rotor, and all parts in between, together. [21] X Research source
Your stator will need three groupings of three coils of 24 gauge copper wire, with each coil having 320 windings of the copper wire. This can be time-consuming and difficult to make. If you decide to make your own stator, an online search for “how to make a wind turbine stator” will walk you through the process.
When making your own stator, be sure to keep track of the beginning and ending of your stator coils. Each coil must be wound in the same direction. You might want to consider putting a colored piece of electrical tape on the beginning of each end every coil. So that your coils don’t unwind once you’ve finished, you should be taped together with electrical tape and secured with two-part epoxy. Allow your epoxy (and stator) to cure on wax paper for however long is indicated on your epoxy label. [22] X Research source
Hold your upper magnet rotor so that your fingers are in the gap between your stacked boards, and slowly lower your upper rotor toward the lower one. Attempt to line up your upper rotor with the studs as you do so. The magnetic field should grab the upper disk and pull it onto the boards you have placed. Then, lower the upper magnet rotor onto the studs by sliding out your boards one at a time. First remove one upper board, then the other. Repeat this process with your lower boards to maneuver your upper magnet rotor into place. Then screw hex nuts onto your studs to fasten the rotor. Once this is complete, your upper rotor should be resting on the spacers with a small amount of the studs protruding from the top of it. You may have to wiggle your boards back and forth to work each free of the upper magnet rotor. The magnetic force will be very powerful. [23] X Research source
Pull the assembly (including the hub, spokes, magnet rotors, stator, and all associated parts) off the spindle with an upwards motion. Then place your assembly on your work area, hub-side facing up.
Your tower will need to be installed at a sturdy location. You might want to pour a concrete slab into which you install your tower to give it additional stability. [24] X Research source
Nuts should be placed on the 3/8” (. 375 cm) threaded rod studs about ¾ of the way from the top of the rod. These nuts will allow you to adjust the position of your stator while the rod holds it in place. [25] X Research source
The greasing process is most easily done with your fingers. Have some paper towel or a work rag close by to wipe your fingers clean once the bearing is greased and placed.
Once the assembly is in place, you’ll need to put another tapered bearing into the cap of your hub. Grease the bearing with general purpose bearing grease. Atop your bearing you’ll need to fasten a castle nut. The castle nut should be screwed into place with your fingers. When you cannot turn the nut easily, unscrew it until the gap in the castle nut aligns with the hole in the shaft of your spindle. Slide a cotter pin in this hole and use pliers to bend the legs of the pin to lock the castle nut into place.
Once your stator is positioned, all you need to do is add a grease cap to the top of your hub and your turbine is complete.
Your wire should be like that found in power cords, with two lengths of wire bound in similar insulation. You can use an old extension cord with the plugs removed, if you wish.
