The size of the adult animal. [1] X Research source Most people purchase a baby iguana when it is only a few inches long, but adult iguanas can reach 20 pounds and 5-7 feet from the tip of their tail to their nose. They live to be about 20 years old and reach their full size at about 2-3 years. [2] X Research source It is crucial that iguana habitats are built to accommodate this size. The type of habitat it has in the wild. [3] X Research source Because an animal’s natural habitat is ideal for its temperament, habits, and adaptive traits, the environment you construct must mimic the natural habitat to the greatest extent possible. Wild green iguanas are naturally found in rain forests throughout Mexico and Central and South America. Its habits. [4] X Research source In the wild, iguanas live in trees and rarely come to the ground. They are good jumpers, and they enjoy swimming. They are diurnal, which means they sleep at night and are active during the day, and because they are cold-blooded they tend to sunbathe in the morning to raise their body temperatures. Knowing these features of iguanas can help you to prepare the optimal environment.
In general, this means the cage will need to be about 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. [5] X Research source The height is crucial, since iguanas live in trees and the enclosure must contain perches or branches for it to climb. Most iguana owners reserve the length of a wall for their iguana’s enclosure. The enclosures generally need to be too high and heavy to place them atop furniture.
One thing to keep in mind is accessibility. You will need to easily put food and water inside the enclosure, and you need to be able to clean and disinfect the entire habitat (floors, walls, branches, food dishes, etc. ) about once a week. Be sure that the enclosure you design is accessible for these purposes. Keep in mind whether or not the enclosure will be seen by visitors to your home. This can help you make a decision about how fancy or simple it should be, and whether or not you should take the time to design an enclosure that will blend with the decor of your home.
Be sure to include where you will place a door, several branches or perches, a light source at the top on one side (it should keep one side warm and the other side less so, so the animal has a place to go to cool down), and a water source at the bottom. Consider making one side or wall removable for easy cleaning, as the entire cage will need to be disinfected weekly. Some people build a large, human sized door into the enclosure, so that they can easily step inside to clean it or spend time with their pet.
The frame can be constructed of PVC pipe or wood. Use standard hard woods that come in 2x4s like pine or spruce, but avoid aromatic woods like cedar or redwood which contain oils that can be dangerous for iguanas. [6] X Research source Most people construct their enclosure walls from Plexiglas, plastic mesh (not wire, unless it is covered with plastic, as it can hurt your iguana’s toes), or tempered glass so that they can see their iguana, but this is not strictly necessary. You can use solid wood if you choose. PVC pipe and plastic mesh (or wire mesh covered in plastic) is a good plan for a cage that can be rolled outdoors on warm days. However, Plexiglas or glass will get too hot inside from the greenhouse effect, so plan to keep a Plexiglas or glass enclosure indoors. Consider building your enclosure on wheels to make moving it easier.
Purchase enough lumber or PVC pipe to build a cage according to your blueprint measurements, but at least 6 feet high, 3-6 feet wide, and 10-12 feet long. If you’re using PVC, consider buying special fittings like the “3-Way Ell” which is a joint that connects the angles of the structure. [7] X Research source Purchase enough plastic or plastic-covered wire mesh, Plexiglas, or tempered glass for your floors, walls, and ceiling, along with glue or PVC cement to seal it to the frame. If you’re using mesh, you can also dry-fit the mesh to the frame using zip ties. [8] X Research source Purchase or make perches. These are available widely at pet stores and online, or they can be simple wood branches that are stripped and sealed. Just be sure that they are made from safe woods such as spruce or fir. Get a saw or hacksaw, to cut the wood or PVC frame to length. You can also ask the home supply or hardware store if they can cut the wood or PVC for you, as long as you know your correct measurements. You will also need some side-cutters or electrician’s pliers to cut the mesh if you’re using it, and wood stain (if desired) and a water-based polyurethane sealant if you’re building with wood. Purchase a heat lamp, available at most pet stores. An adult iguana will need a hotspot of at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that includes both UVA and UVB light. You can use a special heat lamp that fits these specifications from the pet store, or build your own fixture using fluorescent tubes. [9] X Research source One reliable and simple option is to use two ZooMed 5. 0 bulbs, available online, mounted in a high-quality fluorescent fixture, which can be purchased in any hardware store.
Cut the wood or PVC pipe to your desired dimensions and affix frames for each side of the cage with glue and butt joints. Once each side of the cage has been constructed, nail or glue the sides together to create the cube. Include a door mechanism on the frame for easy access inside. This can be a removable top, a hinged door on one side, or both.
The sealant will make the wood easier to clean and protect your iguana from fumes. [10] X Research source
If you are using Plexiglas or tempered glass, glue it to the frame instead of stapling it. Cut and nail additional wood to place over the corners of the frame if using mesh as a side material.
The heat source must be located no more than 8" above where the iguana will spend its time basking (generally the top of the enclosure), because iguanas have sensors on their foreheads that regulate how frequently they need to bask. [11] X Research source Affix the heat lamp to the top of the enclosure using zip ties, ensuring that cords extend on the outside of the cage. Be sure that if the fluorescent bulbs are exposed, you cover them with a wire bulb guard to prevent your iguana from touching the bulb and burning its skin. You should also install a couple of reliable thermometers in various locations in the enclosure to ensure that it is kept at the right temperature, which is crucial to iguana health. Under the basking light should be low to mid 90s (Fahrenheit) and the rest of the enclosure should be no lower than 80 degrees.
You can use a large bowl or other container filled with water. Iguanas need a water source that is not only for drinking but also big enough to climb inside.
Iguanas like to climb and bask in heat. They need exercise and the ability to get closer to the heat lamps to digest their food. Be creative, but ensure that it is accessible to the iguana. Branches and layers in the enclosure should ensure that the iguana can move to a variety of temperature zones by getting closer or farther from the heat source. For safety, the branches should be as wide as the width of your iguana. [13] X Research source
Place newspaper at the bottom of the cage for easy cleanup. Ensure that there is fresh water in the bowl and plenty of food. Iguanas are strict herbivores and enjoy a varied diet of consisting of mostly vegetables (primarily leafy green vegetables), some fruit, and an occasional treat of cooked rice, pasta, or whole wheat bread. Use a shallow bowl for food (plastic, ceramic, or glass will work fine) and change it daily.
