A simple cardboard box An aquarium A cat carrier A guinea pig cage[1] X Research source

Consider putting a ventilated lid on the habitat for times when you are not home or unable to watch your chick. This can keep other animals out while protecting your chick from falling out of the cage. Avoid putting the habitat in any spaces that are very high off the ground. This can protect your chicks from falling too far, which can be fatal

Line the housing with old towels or blankets for the chick’s first few weeks of life. Make sure the lining has no loose strings, which your chick can swallow or might strangle her. Switch to a lining of straw and newspaper after a few weeks. Make sure to cover the bottom of the habitat with enough straw because the slippery surface of the newspaper can cause your chick’s legs to grow malformed. [4] X Research source

Construct a heat source using a 100watt light bulb in a reflective clamp style lamp or an infrared reptile heat bulb. Install either option on one side of the habitat. You can get both lamps at most pet and home stores. Make sure the temperature is a constant 90-100 degrees for the first few weeks of the chick’s life. Your chick is the best thermometer for her habitat: if she is hiding on the opposite corner of the habitat from the lamp, then it is too hot. If she is smothering herself in the blankets or along with other chicks, then you need to increase the heat. Consider keeping your chick’s habitat away from radiators or non-lamp heating devices to help maintain a warm and consistent temperature. You may also want to keep it away from drafty areas.

Consider staying with your chick for an hour or so to help her get used to her habitat.

Remove any soiled lining and replace it as necessary. Replace all of the lining at least once a week. Wash your chick’s water and food dish at least once a week with a mild soap and hot water. Make sure to thoroughly dry the dishes to prevent the development of bacteria that can harm your chick. [7] X Research source Wipe down any soiled walls or bases. If you are using a cardboard box, consider giving your chick a new one if it is soiled or smells bad.

Provide your chick food specially formulated for chicks for the first two months of her life. You may get either a medicated or non-medicated food depending on your chick’s needs or your personal preference. You can get chick food at either your vet’s office or a pet store. Switch to grower feed, which is about 17% protein, when your chick turns two months old. After another two months, you’ll switch the feed again to a slightly lower protein choice or a layer feed. Make sure your chick has a constant supply of food and water because she will grow quickly. Refill food as necessary and make sure you clean her food dish at least once a week. Throw away any feed that is old, moldy, or stale. [9] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source

Be aware that not all chicks will take baths. Your chick may wait until she is older and this is entirely normal. [11] X Research source

Give your chick a name and make sure to talk to her using this name during your play. Hold and stroke her for at least a few minutes multiple times a day. Consider allowing her time to roam outside of her habitat during the day. However, make sure you watch her during this time so she doesn’t injure herself or doesn’t fall prey to another animal. [12] X Trustworthy Source The Humane Society of the United States National organization devoted to the promotion of animal welfare Go to source

Check or listen for signs of wheezing or limping, which can signal a problem with your chick’s lungs or leg development. Examine your chick’s poop, too. Diarrhea can cause matted feathers or clogged cloaca, which are the openings to the digestive and urinary tracts. [14] X Research source Avoid introducing chicks from different flocks to your chick, as these can also introduce disease. Schedule an appointment with your vet if you see any signs of illness or are concerned about your chick.

Continue to monitor your chick over the next few weeks to make sure she’s properly growing feathers. The rate of feather development should increase over the following weeks and your fluffy chick will appear more like a grown chicken. Be aware that it’s common for your chick to go through a phase of looking awkward while she is transitioning. Don’t be surprised if she has long, gangly legs and scraggly feathers. This phase is comparatively short.

Feed your chick her starter rations until she is about 18 weeks old. At about 18-20 weeks, switch her food to a layer feed, which has extra calcium to help her grow. Consider getting a well-balanced layer feed at your local pet store or vet’s office. These feeds have the right protein, vitamins, and nutrients to help your chick grow into a chicken. Avoid feeding your chick scratch if you can afford it. Although your chick might love the taste, it doesn’t necessarily have all of the nutrients needed for proper growth. Consider giving her scratch as a treat. Make sure your chick has a consistent source of clean food and water. Spread it in her habitat and keep a dish of water readily available. As your chick grows, you may want to check the habitat a few times a day to ensure that your chick has enough food and water.

You can either purchase a commercially constructed coop or build one yourself. Your chick will need 2-3 square feet of space to live comfortably. You can buy coops at many pet stores or consider getting one secondhand. If you decide to build the coop yourself, you will need to incorporate some of the following elements: four walls, a roosting bar, a nest box, windows for ventilation, and a door with a secure latch. Take safety precautions when setting up the coop. Raise it 6–8 inches (15. 2–20. 3 cm) off of the ground to prevent rodent infestation and cover or replace any ventilation holes with cloth wire instead of chicken wire to prevent injury. Make sure to check the latch because raccoons are very good at opening latches. Move your growing chick when it is at least 55 degrees at night inside the coop. Remember that your chick will still be sensitive to temperatures as she grows and may need to stay inside longer to promote healthy development. Be aware that although there is usually no problem introducing your chick into a coop with other chickens, she may be hesitant at first. Introduce her gradually and gently to the flock through playtime outdoors or putting her in the coop for a few minutes a day until she is ready to move more permanently.