If you are getting more than one turtle, be sure you have enough tanks to separate the turtles as necessary. Male red-eared sliders tend to pester the females. This can be so extreme that the females stop eating. For this reason males and females are best kept separately.
If you’re concerned about the expense of a red-eared slider, it may help to create a rough estimate of the ongoing costs before you buy the turtle. This may help you decide if you’re willing to invest in the pet.
Because of the risk of salmonella infection, you need to have a separate set of utensils for anything related to the turtle, which are kept washed and disinfected away from other household items.
Water depth: Turtles love to dive and chase food, so make sure the water is plenty deep enough to allow this. Space: Turtles are territorial so make sure they have plenty of space to keep away from one another, or you may need to separate them into individual tanks. Waste: Turtle waste is more solid than fish waste. This needs to be kept well diluted by providing a large volume of water, and /or the use of filter system designed for turtles.
Get a floating dock or a rock that is above the water level. A slider can rest on this when it is not swimming. If you live in a warm climate and have a suitable backyard, you can dig out a pond and use a liner to provide a suitable home for a slider. While this will provide a more natural environment for your turtle, you will have less control over environmental conditions and may need to bring your turtle inside during inclement weather.
Under-gravel filter: This needs a large surface area. It’s only useful where you have one or two turtles. If it’s air pump powered, it will only be useful for small turtles or hatchlings. Use a powerhead if using the filter with turtles older than hatchlings. Internal canister filter: This filter sits inside the tank. The larger the better. This can be both affordable and effective. Look for one that allows for easy cleaning, such as the foam type. External canister filter: This one sits outside of the tank. They tend to be expensive, but they are excellent at filtering, which reduces the number of times you need to change water. One canister filter recommended by many turtle owners is the Rena Filstar Xp3 or Xp4.
Avoid fish tank gravel as it presents a health risk––it could fatally block your turtle’s intestines if swallowed. Also, carefully consider using water plants. While they can make the tank look nice and help with filtration, your turtle may be tempted to eat them. If you notice this happening, remove the plants and wash the tank. Place a well-fitting screen over the top of the tank to prevent a daredevil escape and to catch anything accidentally dropped from above.
Your turtle shouldn’t be able to reach the lighting, since the bulbs can burn. Screw the lights tightly out of the way of the turtle. Also, never leave a glass or plastic tank in full sunlight as it will quickly overheat.
Beware of pet stores that keep turtles in poor conditions. A number of turtles are ill before you buy them. Look around and take note of the turtle’s behavior, as well as the conditions the turtles are kept in. The water in the tank should not smell. If it does this is a sign the turtles have not been cleaned out regularly and are more likely to become sick. It is not recommended to buy from large breeders, as they usually have bad conditions and lack veterinary care.
Good vegetable choices include: dandelions (the ones in your yard are good if you don’t use pesticides), carrot tops, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, carrots, bell pepper, and squash. The best greens are water plants like anacharis, water hyacinth, water lettuce, Frogbit, hornwort, and duckweed. While expensive in a pet store, these are easy to grow in a separate tank or pond, and they are cheap if you buy in bulk online. Red eared turtles don’t usually eat fruit in the wild, so avoid it except for an absolute treat. If giving a treat, bananas are a good choice. For commercial food, look for something that has low protein and low fat. Dried shrimp are an absolute no-no! While turtles love the taste of dried shrimp, they offer no nutrients and turtles may refuse other foods for weeks.
Eye infections: The eyes will appear closed, swollen, puffed up or discharging. You may see pieces of tissue coming off. Eye infections are caused by bacteria. The turtle should be seen by a vet and probably needs a topical antibiotic plus upgrading the tank’s filtration system. Soft shell: If your turtle’s shell is softer than it’s supposed to be, your slider may not be getting enough light from your overhead light. If this happens, the turtle’s dock may be too small, the water may be too deep, or the turtle is too weak to get on the dock. If this happens, contact your vet or a pet store. It can also mean that it has metabolic bone disease. Furry mouth and refusal to eat: Your turtle has a bacterial infection and should be seen by immediately by the vet for an antibiotic treatment. Weak, wheezing, lethargic and holding head at an unusual angle: This may be a respiratory infection, such as pneumonia. Immediately take your turtle to the vet. Wounds: Check the tank for sharp objects or a fighting mate. Remove the cause, treat the wound with povidone-iodine solution, and keep it clean. See your vet for more advice. If it’s shell is having a crack, then you will need to take a paste of calcium powder and paste it on the crack of the turtle’s shell. You can make a calcium paste by mixing pure calcium powder with necessary amount of water.
Some turtles love to have their shells gently scratched, just like a backscratch, or scratching behind a dog’s ear. However, be careful, as not all of them enjoy it and may try to bite. Note that their shells have nerve endings in them and they can feel everything. Be gentle. Never touch the mouth of your turtle. This may frighten the turtle causing it to bite. Always approach your turtle by the shell and back of its head.
