Be aware that bearded dragons, while they make delightful pets, are not ideal for young children. They require close attention to detail, such as correct temperatures and regular replacement of UVB bulbs.
Note, however, that many dragons may be missing toes or bits of their tail, but this will not cause them any discomfort as long as the wound looks healed and shows no sign of infection.
It may help to bring a stool sample on your first visit. Inquire about this when you call to make the appointment. There are no vaccines recommended for bearded dragons. [4] X Research source Visits to the vet should be a habit, whether or not your dragon is sick. Aim to take your bearded dragon to the vet for a check-up once every year.
If you’re building an enclosure yourself, keep in mind that it must be well ventilated, easy to disinfect, and able to maintain high temperatures (see below). Cages with wooden sides must be sealed with polyurethane or a similar waterproofing agent, and the joints must be caulked for proper cleaning and disinfection. Ensure that fresh polyurethane be allowed to dry several days and air the cage out thoroughly before placing your beardie in it, otherwise toxicity may result. [6] X Research source
If you’re building an enclosure, make sure it is at least 48 in (122 cm) long, 24 in (61 cm) wide, and 18 in (48 cm) high. To save money, you can purchase a large adult habitat immediately. Consider using adjustable partitions to increase the living space as your beardie grows. [9] X Research source
Ensure that the lid fits tightly.
Make sure that the very bottom of the vivarium is covered with a white or brown unheated mat. This will ensure that if your beardie decides to dig under whatever bedding you placed, its most vulnerable part (its stomach) will not make contact with the cold bottom of the tank.
Never use anything from nature. Natural logs and other objects could carry parasites, no matter how much you clean them. Instead, use ready-sterile logs and sticks from stores. Wash them with warm water and let them dry before placing them in the tank. Add some branches for climbing and basking. They should be securely located under the secondary heat source (see Part 3). Make sure they are as wide as your bearded dragon. Oak is a good choice, as are boards covered in carpets. Avoid wood with sticky sap or pitch. Provide some smooth rocks for basking and wearing down nails. Give your beardie a place to seclude itself. You can add an empty cardboard box, cardboard tube, or flower pot. The hiding place should give a snug fit and be placed high in the enclosure. If your dragon doesn’t use the hiding space, try moving it to a new location or using a different object. Put in a few plants to provide shade, humidity, and a sense of security. Make sure the plants you choose are nontoxic to bearded dragons (such as Dracaena, Ficus benjamina, and hibiscus). It is important that the plants and their soil have not been treated with pesticides, vermiculite, fertilizer, or wetting agents. Before putting the plant in the cage, wash the plant with a water spray and pour water enough water on the soil so that it drains out the bottom: this helps remove any toxic chemicals. You may also want to keep newly purchased plants in a separate part of the house for a while before introducing them to the bearded dragon’s enclosure. [11] X Research source
Use a series of incandescent lights above the top of the cage. Keep in mind that they’ll need to be turned off at night, when another heat source will be necessary, depending on the temperature in the room. Try a heating pad under the cage or a ceramic infrared heater as an evening source of heat. There are reptile-specific incandescent bulbs which emit heat but little visible light; however, these are expensive. For larger enclosures, adjust the room temperature with a thermostat or space heater. Always include a fire alarm in a room where light or other heat sources are in operation. [12] X Research source
Never use hot rocks as a heat source! Note that baby bearded dragons in a smaller cage space will need a lower wattage, otherwise the enclosure may become too hot. [13] X Research source Any temperatures above 110 F (43 C) are not recommended, but within a few degrees of these basking temperatures will be sufficient. One thermometer on the “hot side” and one on the “cool side” will make sure that your temperatures are in the correct range.
Make sure the fluorescent bulb has at least 5 percent UVB (check the packaging for these specifications). Look for light strips that cover the length of the enclosure. Consider reptile-specific black lights in the 290-320 nanometer range. (Note that these are not the same as plant-grow lights or psychedelic black lights, neither of which produces UVB rays. ) You can choose bulbs that emit both white light and UVB, or UVB only. Ideally, the UVB light source should be about 10-12 in (25. 4-30. 5 cm) from wherever the bearded dragon spends most of its time (such as the basking site) to ensure adequate exposure. It should be no farther than 18 in (45. 7 cm) away. Keep in mind that UVB rays do not pass through glass. Your UVB source should be above the mesh top of the enclosure, and the mesh should not be too fine. The sun is the best source of UVB rays. On sunny days when the temperatures are in the appropriate range (see Part 3, Step 1, above), place your beardie outside in a secure screen or wire cage with a locking door. Remember to provide some shade and hiding spaces, as well. [14] X Research source
Provide hatchlings with a diet of small insects. If you are caring for a very young bearded dragon, you’ll need to give it very small prey, such as pinhead crickets and tiny, freshly molted worms. You can very gradually introduce day-old pinkie mice when they are ready. Feed juvenile dragons (two to four months old) a mix of 80 percent small insects and 20 percent greens (see below for recommendations). Young dragons need to be fed two to three times per day.
Feed a “salad” based on collards, dandelion greens and flowers, escarole, endive, grape leaves, mustard greens, turnip greens, and/or watercress. You can add the following to the salad to balance it out: acorn squash, red and green bell peppers, butternut squash, green beans, lentils, peas, pumpkin and other winter squash, snow peas, sweet potatoes, and turnips. Cook or microwave squashes before feeding to soften them up. Give the following veggies sparingly as treats: cabbage, chard, and kale (which are high in calcium oxalates and can cause metabolic bone disease); carrots (high in Vitamin A, which in high levels can be toxic); spinach, broccoli, and parsley (high in goitrogens, which decrease thyroid function); and corn, cucumbers, radishes, sprouts, and zucchini (these are low in nutrition). Spraying the greens with water will help them last longer and will also help keep your bearded dragon hydrated. Shred the veggies and mix them together in the salad to encourage your beardie to eat a variety of foods, rather than just picking out its favorites. [15] X Research source
“Gutload” the prey by feeding it a nutrient-rich diet one to two days before serving it to your beardie. For example, you can feed it ground legumes, cornmeal, carrots, sweet potatoes, collard greens, mustard greens, broccoli, spinach, apples, oranges, cereals, and rolled oats. [16] X Research source Any uneaten prey items should be removed from your dragon’s enclosure. It is advisable to purchase the prey, since wild-caught prey (for example, something you catch in your yard) may have been exposed to toxic chemicals or have parasites that could be passed on to your dragon. Lightning bugs are toxic to your dragon. Silkworms are a good staple diet only if you have a sick or pregnant dragon.
You may also want to supplement Vitamin D3. Consult the product directions and/or your veterinarian about the amount of supplements to give, since over-dosing can lead to toxic levels.
Beardies often defecate in their water bowl, so change the water once a day (or immediately if you notice fecal matter). For the same reason, you’ll need to disinfect the bowl once a week with a 1:10 bleach-water solution to avoid any bacterial build-up. [17] X Research source If your beardie is uninterested in drinking, spritz it lightly with water: it will lick the drops off its skin. [18] X Research source
Bathwater should be warm on your wrist and not hot, much like Bathwater for a small child. Make the water only as deep as your dragon’s chest, or half-way up their front arms. Fill the tub until the water reaches the second knuckle on your index finger for adults and the first knuckle for the juveniles. Never leave your Bearded Dragon unattended in the bath - accidents only take a second to happen. It’s a good idea to disinfect your tub when the bath is over because dragons will often defecate in the water. Use a 1:10 solution of bleach and water. [19] X Research source
Mix a 1:10 solution of bleach and water in a spray bottle. Remove your beardie from the cage. Have someone hold it, or place it in a safe enclosure. Use hot, soapy water and a clean rag to wipe away any dirt or feces. Next, spray the bleach solution across the entire surface of what you are cleaning until it is soaked and let it sit for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, scrub the surface with a rag or paper towel, making sure any old food or feces is removed. Rinse all surfaces repeatedly with water until you can no longer smell bleach. If you still smell bleach rinse again.
Because bearded dragons may carry Salmonella, use a separate sponge to clean their food and water bowl, supervise children when handling them, and don’t let them crawl around the kitchen. Also, avoid kissing your beardie, no matter how much you love it. [20] X Research source
Pick up your beardie by placing your hand under its belly and gently scooping it up. Let the dragon lay on your palm, and lightly curl your fingers around its abdomen. [21] X Research source
Wrap your beardie in a towel, leaving one leg exposed. Have an assistant hold the beardie. Use human nail clippers to take off the very tip of the nails. Do just a little, as lizards have a vein, called a quick, running through their fingers. If you do cut into the quick, stop the bleeding by dabbing a little cornstarch onto the nail with a cotton swab. Alternatively, you can file your dragon’s nails, or have a vet cut them for a nominal fee.
Inflated beard: When a lizard wants to show dominance, or feels startled or threatened - this particularly happens during breeding season - it puffs its throat out. Mouth gaping: As with the inflated beard, this gesture is meant to make the dragon look menacing, as a show of dominance or to scare off a potential aggressor. Bobbing head: Males show dominance with this gesture. Arm waving: Sometimes a dragon may hold up one front leg and slowly wave it, which is a sign of submission. Raised tail: This is commonly seen during the breeding season. It can also be a sign of alertness and activeness. Juveniles tend to raise their tail when they’re hunting prey. [22] X Research source
